Praise Ra, it’s summer. As Roy Ayers exuberantly professes in his good times track – ‘Everybody Loves the Sunshine’, except for the gamer in my basement, but that’s another longer story.
I. Under the tracks
My first encounter with a yokocho was long before I moved here, back when Tokyo was still an unfamiliar gleaming enchanting mess of lights, a tangle of train lines and zebra crossings packed with an implausible number of people.